In China, where consumerism holds sway, a shift towards quiet luxury has emerged, prioritizing restraint and timeless elegance over fleeting trends. Originating in the West in early 2023, the quiet luxury aesthetic has now found its way into China, reshaping Chinese luxury consumption. “Old-money style,” “Clean-fit style,” and “Maillard style” have helped the rise of quiet luxury, alongside a maturing luxury market and economic challenges post-pandemic. While the rise of quiet luxury presents opportunities for luxury brands, it also requires careful consideration for the future. This article delves into the quiet luxury in Mainland China, guided by the belief that true elegance does not show off.
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The rise of quiet luxury in China
In 2023, quiet luxury emerged both in the West and in China, marking a notable shift in luxury consumption. Popularized in the West by influencers like Sofia Richie, this trend quickly gained popularity, redefining the notion of opulence. Unlike the loud luxury displays of the past, consumers began prioritizing taste and design over flashy logos, seeking to convey wealth through subtlety and sophistication, opting for a basic and minimalist style.
A trend started by the uber-wealthy
In China, the pandemic-induced economic slowdown is at the origin of the quiet luxury trend. Only the wealthiest continued to indulge in luxury, gravitating towards classic and timeless styles and traditional Chinese aesthetics. For them, buying luxury products is not about flaunting their wealth but about personal satisfaction and appreciation for craftsmanship.
As the pandemic gradually receded, the trend of purchasing high-quality, timeless, and logo-free luxury goods began to seduce a broader audience beyond the ultra-wealthy. Now, as more Chinese consumers embrace the quiet luxury aesthetic, the luxury landscape in China is undergoing a profound change.
KOLs of the quiet luxury aesthetic
Many Asian Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) and celebrities have embraced the quiet luxury style, such as Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh, BTS’s Suga, South Korean actress Song Hye-kyo, and Thai actor Bright. Noteworthy examples from China include actress Angela Baby, socialite Teresa Cheung, and influencer Isabella Ye, with respectively 4.4 million, 1.8 million, and 1.9 million followers on Xiaohongshu. On the platform, they flaunt their understated yet elegant style, redefining luxury and inspiring a broader audience of luxury consumers to adopt the style.
Source: Teresa Cheung (left), Isabella Ye (middle) and Angela Baby (right) adopted the quiet luxury aesthetic
The timeless allure of the Old-money style
The Old-money style, part of quiet luxury, focuses on high-quality and classic pieces rather than flashy logos. It exudes timeless elegance and sophistication, hinting at the wearer’s refined taste. This look signals status and heritage, appreciated by those familiar with this style.
The color palettes favored in the Old-money style are predominantly neutral, ranging from whites to soft beiges, greys, navy blues, and blacks.
Old-money style on social media
On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag #老钱风 (Old-money style) has 170,000 notes. On the platform, Old-money style enthusiasts buy from brands like Loro Piana, Ralph Lauren, and The Row. Old-money-inspired posts frequently feature Western public personalities like Kelly Rutherford, known for her role in Gossip Girl, Princess Diana, and the Princess of Wales.
Source: Xiaohongshu, Old-money aesthetic posts often feature Western public personalities
In addition to elegant and well-tailored clothing, the old-money look incorporates clean and simple makeup. Jewelry pieces are typically made of diamonds, gold, or pearls. Finally, the hairstyle complements the overall aesthetic for a classic and polished appearance.
Clean-fit: minimalist and fatphobic?
Clean-fit, another facet of the quiet luxury aesthetic, prioritizes minimalist design and simplicity. It favors uncluttered clothing styles, clean silhouettes, and a color palette spanning from white to light grey, dark grey, and black. Much like the Old-money style, the clean-fit style is characterized by precision and quality craftsmanship.
Clean-fit on social media: the importance of having a good physique
On Xiaohongshu, #cleanfit boasts 1,040,000 notes. The brands most popular with the clean-fit style enthusiasts are Jil Sander, Theory, and Lemair, appreciated for their minimalist aesthetic and clean silhouettes.
Source: Xiaohongshu, Posts representing the clean-fit style
Comments under clean-fit style posts often praise the elegance of the looks, but also raise concerns about its compatibility with rounder body types. Netizens underscore the importance of physique, noting that because the style is so minimalistic, a well-maintained figure is essential to pull off the clothes.
Source: Xiaohongshu, Comments under the clean-style posts highlight the importance of having a good physique to pull off this style
Brown-hued chic: the Maillard style
Maillard-inspired outfits revolve around layering different shades of brown, including tan, reddish brown, and warm yellow-browns, and pairing them with khaki or off-white hues.
The Maillard style initially gained popularity on Douyin, quickly gaining traction with over 6 billion views. Embraced by celebrities like Zhang Xiaofei and Yang Mi, the Maillard style transcends clothing to encompass makeup as well. On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag #美拉德 (maillard style) has amassed 780,000 notes, underscoring the significant popularity of this style.
Source: Xiaohongshu, Posts inspired by the Maillard Style
Foreign brands reign supreme
On Chinese social media, aficionados of the Maillard style gravitate toward Western brands like MaxMara, Brunello Cucinelli, Loewe, and Miu Miu. These brands are renowned for their high-quality fabrics and muted color palettes.
Source: Xiaohongshu, Some of the favorite brands of Maillard-style enthusiasts
Navigating quiet luxury in China: challenges for brands
As fashion brands navigate the changing landscape caused by quiet luxury, they encounter many challenges.
As quiet luxury purchases seduce Chinese consumers, foreign and local brands confront the challenge of preserving their identity while embracing subtlety. Notably, brands like Louis Vuitton, known for their logo-heavy designs, may struggle to pivot towards the quiet luxury trend. Moreover, as brands adapt to the quiet luxury trend with more classic designs, they face the dual challenge of remaining distinct from competitors.
Source: Louis Vuitton, The brand’s understated designs may lack distinctiveness compared to those of its competitors.
Another challenge of selling quiet luxury lies in storytelling. It is not merely about selling simple and high-quality products; it is about creating stories that resonate with consumers. Brands must go beyond product features, and try to evoke emotions to foster connections with their audience. For instance, The Row, a fashion brand known for its understated elegance, crafts narratives that highlight their dedication to craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and quality materials, resonating with discerning consumers.
Quiet luxury in China: redefining elegance and shaping the future of luxury
- Originating in the West and now thriving in China, the quiet luxury trend prioritizes timeless elegance over fleeting trends, reshaping luxury consumption.
- Characterized by high-quality, classic pieces and neutral color palettes, the Old-money style signals refined taste and heritage.
- Clean-fit style, characterized by minimalist designs, garnered 1,040,000 notes on Xiaohongshu. But netizens emphasize the importance of a good physique for pulling off this style.
- The Maillard style, embraced by celebrities like Zhang Xiaofei and Yang Mi, centers around layering different shades of brown. This style is exemplified by brands like Maxmara and Brunello Cucinelli.
- As brands navigate the changing luxury landscape, they face the challenge of balancing brand identity while embracing subtlety and crafting compelling narratives to resonate with consumers beyond conspicuous logos.
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